North Branch, 
A Forgotten Stretch of River
By Ken Pavol

The North Branch of the Potomac River emerges from the ground as a small spring, marked by the Fairfax Stone, in the farthest corner of Western Maryland. From there it flows eastward, steadily gaining power, as it divides Maryland and West Virginia. The story of the transformation of the upper reaches of the North Branch has been well publicized, from a biological desert to a living trout stream in just a few short years -- the technology of mine acid drainage abatement defeating pollution, a triumph of man over his own mistakes.

Yet there is much more of the North Branch beyond its headwaters. It flows to meet the South Branch, forming the mighty Potomac, the “Nation’s River.” In 1998, it was federally designated an American Heritage River, reflecting its status among America’s great rivers. The Potomac provides recreational opportunities for many thousands of people each year, from fisherman to boaters, from wildlife watchers to fans of white water.

But there is a 30-mile reach of the Potomac in Western Maryland that many have forgotten. Here the North Branch winds it way through beautiful woodlands, where vertical cliffs tower above the river and wildlife appears around every bend. In places there are homes and businesses not far away, but they hardly intrude on the solitude of the river. You can spend a day floating down this forgotten river, never encountering another person, enjoying scenery as beautiful as the Potomac has to offer, anywhere. The Potomac’s premier game fish, the smallmouth bass, is plentiful and willing, but rarely finds a taker.

By now you may be wondering: Where is this place and why don’t people go there? Because, like its headwaters, this part of the Potomac has suffered. For many decades a paper mill added its effluent to already acid-polluted waters. The river was not only lifeless, but stained brown and turbid as well, the unmistakable scent of paper manufacturing a constant companion. But through the persistent efforts of people, government, and industry, progress is made.

The North Branch isn’t the river it was 10, 20, or even 100 years ago. It’s much better. Those of us in the Fisheries Service, who monitor the status of fish in Maryland’s waters, have followed the changes. As pollution abatement efforts have neutralized acid pollution and reduced industrial wastes, the North Branch has come alive.

The smallmouth bass is the prize most anglers seek in the rushing waters of the Potomac. First introduced at Cumberland in 1854, a few dozen fingerlings became the seeds that would populate the entire river within a decade. But the needs of man superseded the needs of fish, and the unrestrained harvest of coal and timber exacted its toll on water quality. By the turn of the century the smallmouth bass, and many native fish species, had disappeared from the North Branch upstream of Cumberland. While the forests staged a comeback, the byproducts of the manufacture of tires, paper and synthetic fibers began to add to the river’s burden.

It seems appropriate that now, a century later, we can proclaim that the bass are back. Yes, that 30 miles of forgotten river is swimming with bass, along with various sunfish, sculpins, darters, dace, and even a few trout. In 1993, encouraged by improving fish diversity and abundance, Fisheries Service personnel began a project to reestablish bass in the upper North Branch. As in 1854, fingerling smallmouth bass were stocked, but this time by the thousands.

In 1997, those original bass, now sexually mature, spawned successfully. The forgotten stretch of the North Branch became home to the first stream-born smallmouth bass it had held in 100 years. With bass reproduction occurring each spring since 1997, this year finds those first wild offspring spawning as well. From tiny fingerlings to 18 inches long, smallmouth bass now populate waters that held none only a half-dozen years ago. Would you care to fish this little known area of the Potomac? For scenic vistas and plentiful bass, float-fishing is your best option. You’ll find it’s quite a challenge, but not because the float fishing is difficult. Finding a put-in and take-out site is the real challenge.

A history of dirty, smelly, lifeless waters created little interest in creating access. For 30 miles there were no boat ramps, no campsites, no “facilities” of any kind. Few roads even reached the river there, mandating one find a bridge or adjacent road to launch, hoping that: (1) you were not trespassing; (2) you could recognize whatever take-out spot you managed to locate; and (3) your boat was a light one.

By the time you read this, however, access may be considerably improved. The picture is rapidly changing, thanks to the efforts of Western Maryland’s Program Open Space (POS) personnel.

Consulting with the Fisheries Service to identify access sites, POS staff has already begun the process of funding the construction of two boat ramps, the first near Westernport, and the other at the Allegany County Fairgrounds near Cumberland. At least two more ramps are in the planning stage. The goal is to provide a put-in and take-out point for each day-long float segment between Westernport and Cumberland. Opportunities for primitive camping along the route may also evolve as access is developed.

If you come, don’t expect crystal clear waters. The recovery of a polluted river is accomplished over time and the North Branch is no exception. The waters are still dark but lighten as you move downstream. The scenery requires no apologies, nor does the fishing. You’ll float past spectacular cliffs, beautiful woodlands and abundant wildlife as you catch some of the hardest fighting smallmouth bass you’ll find anywhere. Return them to the water and you’ll be helping to ensure the success of the growing population.

May through October will provide the best fishing. You’ll need a canoe, kayak, or an inflatable craft along with your flotation vest and some modest paddling skills. The rapids you’ll encounter will offer some challenges but are not intimidating. Your fishing gear should include light spinning or bait casting equipment with a few surface lures and spinners, or a fly-rod and some popping bugs. You could opt for a guided float trip. A local outfitter is gearing up to offer guided float-fishing trips between Westernport and Cumberland. And oh yes... don’t forget to bring a camera. You’ll be glad you did.

Ken Pavol, an avid angler, is DNR’s Western Region Fisheries Manager. Talk about your dream jobs...

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