About 185 million years ago, a seven-mile thick sheet of sedimentary rock began to buckle and fold. Wind and water wore away the softer layers, wearing down the mountains, and creating a region of rolling plains. Then the plains themselves were violently uplifted and broken.

The rivers that had previously rolled gently over the plains turned into raging torrents that cut deep gorges and canyons. One such gorge is the Smoke Hole, where the South Branch of the Potomac River squeezes between North Mountain and Cave Mountain. For over 20 miles the river has carved a half-mile deep canyon, with nearly vertical walls.

The misty fog that often lies along the river as it runs through the “hole” makes the name appropriate. Where the name really came from is uncertain. Some old timers call the canyon “Smoke Holes” and claim Native Americans used the caves for smoking meat. Others say it was the moonshiner’s stills that gave the gorge its name.

Regardless, the canyon is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful areas in West Virginia. The remote, rugged landscape provides a unique recreation experience, whether you are fishing, hunting, hiking, canoeing, or camping. The roads into the area are narrow and winding, take your time and enjoy the scenery.

Smoke Hole Picnic Area offers visitors a beautiful place to stop and spend an hour or spend the day hiking a three and a half mile loop trail. The trail affords spectacular views of the gorge and surrounding mountains. One can also just spend some time enjoying the solitude, bird watching, or fishing. To reserve the pavilion, contact the Potomac Ranger District at (304) 257-4488.

The North Fork Mountain Trail follows the ridge top along the western rim of the canyon. This 24-mile trail has countless views of the Smoke Hole canyon and North Fork valley. Drinking water is not available so remember to bring your own. From high points, the Blue Ridge Mountains are visible to the east.

Located at the end of Smoke Hole River Road, the Big Bend Campground contains 46 campsites in three loops. Each site has a picnic table, lantern post, fire ring, and parking place. Piped water and flush toilets are available April through October. You can take a short walk on the one-third mile trail that runs along the turn in the river that gives the campground its name.

Fishing is extremely popular along the river throughout the canyon. Streams are stocked with rainbow and golden trout by the West Virginia Department of Natural Resources from January through June and then again in October. Large and smallmouth bass are also plentiful. State fishing licenses with a national forest stamp are required. Special regulations apply to the area between Eagle Rock and Kimble Cabins (designated with signs and cables across the river). This area is managed for “catch and release” only from March 1 through May 31. Special bait and tackle regulations apply. General regulations apply June 1 through February 28.

Kayaking and whitewater canoeing provide the best ways to see the canyon, particularly the lower section where there are no roads or trails. The entire canyon river run is about 25 miles.

Squirrel, grouse, turkey, deer, rabbit, and bear hunting are popular in late fall. Most of the land in the Smoke Hole is managed by the Forest Service and is open to hunting subject to West Virginia hunting regulations.

Caves are common in the area. Some are home to the endangered Virginia big-eared bat and are therefore closed to visitors during critical nesting or hibernation periods.

For more information, contact the Potomac District Office at (304) 257-4488 or you can call the Seneca Rocks Discovery Center at (304) 567-2827.